Priscilla Parkhurst Ferguson’s “Accounting for Taste” and Intersections with Gastromythology

American sociologist, Priscilla Parkhurst Ferguson’s Accounting for Taste (2004) offers a theoretical framework that aligns closely with Arup K. Chatterjee’s concept of gastromythology, particularly in its exploration of how culinary discourse transforms food into an ideological and cultural construct. Ferguson argues that cuisine is not merely about food preparation but about the socially prized pursuit of culinary excellence that engages both producers and consumers through texts and discourse. This resonates with gastromythology, which, as Chatterjee articulates, asserts that food narratives are structured by ideological and cultural forces beyond their immediate materiality.

Ferguson’s discussion of how gastronomy emerged as a codified practice in 19th-century France emphasizes how culinary discourse constructs taste as a societal, rather than an individual, phenomenon. This is in line with the argument made in Arup K. Chatterjee’s “The Gastromythology of English Tea Culture”, which highlights how Victorian advertising mythologized tea as an “aesthetically augmented reality” that repressed its colonial origins and racialized its consumption. Ferguson notes that culinary discourse transforms the ephemeral act of eating into something fixed and institutionalized through texts, a process similar to the way gastromythology structures myths around food consumption.

Additionally, Ferguson highlights how food texts convert eating into an intellectual and symbolic practice, emphasizing that culinary culture is shaped by critical discourse. She argues that gastronomy engages the consumer by creating a system of meaning that extends beyond immediate culinary experience. This mirrors the notion in gastromythology that food myths are not just about flavor or sustenance but are ideological tools that reinforce cultural and political narratives. In “Luca Brasi Sleeps with the Fishes”, for example, Chatterjee’s gastromythological reading of The Godfather explores how food scenes are infused with symbolic power, shaping cinematic and cultural memory.

Ferguson also identifies the role of nostalgia in constructing culinary identity, particularly in the French gastronomic tradition. This aligns with gastromythology’s critique of how certain foods are presented as “authentic” through selective historical narratives. In “The Decline of London’s Curry Culture,Chatterjee argues that the branding of curry as a traditional British food erases its colonial entanglements and repositions it as an unproblematic cultural staple.

Ultimately, Ferguson’s work underscores the fundamental premise of gastromythology: that food is never just about sustenance but is deeply embedded in discursive formations that shape national and cultural identity. Both perspectives challenge the idea of food as a neutral or apolitical subject, demonstrating that culinary practices and their representations are always situated within broader ideological frameworks.

Bibliography

Ferguson, P. P. (2004). Accounting for Taste: The Triumph of French Cuisine. University of Chicago Press.

search previous next tag category expand menu location phone mail time cart zoom edit close